Why we ferment whole clusters

Whole-cluster fermentation means fermenting the grapes on their stems, and it is the single biggest stylistic choice we make with Pinot Noir.

The stems — when fully ripe, and ours always are — contribute aromatics that no barrel can add: green tea, dried herbs, spice, and that elusive "somewhereness" that makes a wine taste like a hillside rather than a recipe.

They also change the tannin. Stem tannins are firmer than seed tannins, so a whole-cluster wine is built to age and rewards patience. In a warm year we use as much as 80% whole cluster; in a cool one, closer to half, letting the fruit carry the wine.

It is more work — sorting the stems by hand, gentler punch-downs, more patience — and it is the reason our Pinots are what they are.

Taste the Estate Pinot and the Gamay side by side at the tasting room; one is whole-cluster, the other carbonic, and the difference will answer every question in this post.